We're going to Serbia and Bulgaria! Read on to "travel" with us.

Friday, September 26, 2025

Tour Retrospective: Mirroring Dunava

Gedney reporting on her experience as one of the newer Dunava members on this musical adventure abroad. 

Before I joined Dunava, almost all my exposure to singing had been through theater - but not musical theater.

For about half of my professional career to date, I worked as a director and actor with theater companies that used singing as a core part of their ongoing training and rehearsals. Presence and listening are critical muscles for actors, and there are few workouts for those muscles more effective than singing.


But what these theater companies found was that you couldn’t cultivate presence and listening with just any old song. Interestingly, a song was especially effective at getting people to pay attention and listen to each other, when it possessed one or more of the following qualities:

  • Unfamiliar - it was a lot harder to get the same quality of engagement with something like Yesterday or Old McDonald 
  • Foreign - similarly, singing in a language you neither understood nor spoke forced you to pay attention to the sounds a lot more closely
  • Harmonically complex - When the music did things the learner does not expect, or created chords they couldn’t easily anticipate based on their own musical background

It should be no surprise, then, that the cadre of theater companies that were and are interested in continually fine-tuning their companies’ ability to listen closely while making something together have been drawn to the polyphonic traditions of places like Bulgaria, Corsica, Georgia. In my experience, even professionally trained singers, when confronted with this music for the first time, find they cannot rely on the same muscles or habits they usually rely on for belting out the hits from Les Mis or even La Boheme. And because perfecting these songs for an actual performance is seldom the goal, it allows actors working with this music to focus on the process of learning, of catching the quality of a song that is or feels far from what you know or understand, and to open yourself and grow just in the attention exerted in trying. 


Let me be clear - in the companies where I’ve seen this exercise applied, pronunciation is often butchered, tuning can be quite wonky, as can timing. The actors rarely succeed in approaching anything approximating authenticity or successful mimicry. If you came from these traditions, or even a choir like Dunava, and sat in on one of these rehearsals, you might cringe. And this makes sense, because only inconsistently is anyone who is an expert in any of the musical traditions drawn upon in the room to coach or correct. The focus was instead more myopic: what happens to us as we’re singing this music together. What physical, psychological, emotive, intellectual associations arise? How can we hold those together, all the while tending to the main objective of singing this song? 


Just like an actor with lines, if you don’t fill the words you’re saying with feeling, embodiment, and intention towards the other people onstage, the audience feels little. But also, if you just feel whatever the words make you feel and cease to care about the words themselves, about conveying them to others, the audience will likely just receive a chaotic, intensely felt grab bag. The same balance actors needed to strike when acting was called upon with these songs - and with native language stripped away, it felt like a more targeted workout of those muscles. 


All that is to say, the way we actors learned these songs was shaped by what it was we wanted to do. Since we didn’t want to perform them, what we were listening for was very different than, say, Dunava. 


Perhaps unsurprisingly then, when I joined Dunava three years ago with next to no choral experience, the “choir” approach felt like a bit of a culture shock. I had never tried to sing these songs as close to the source recording as possible. I had never really concerned myself over dark or light Ls, whether my ornamentation was the same every time, or even whether or not I was totally in tune. But I had auditioned for the group because I had always loved that singing part of my theater work, and wanted to see what it was like to really focus on the music devotedly with a group of astoundingly skilled and disciplined singers. 


Three years later, I’m still here! But I’m definitely still processing the different ways we can relate to what we’re singing, who we’re singing with, and how we practice. 


While we were traveling in Serbia and Bulgaria, we heard various interpretations and approaches to how to handle “their” music - I put “their” in quotations because for some of our teachers, they had traveled to regions where they did not grow up to learn songs from grannies who had learned the songs from their grannies, who learned from their grannies, and so on. In other instances they studied music professionally, and were teaching us music based on folk songs but adapted / arranged by composers from their country - countries, I might add, whose borders have fluctuated over the past centuries. But also sometimes they might’ve been teaching us a song they heard their granny sing growing up. 


All along the trip, we wrestled with the question of ownership and authenticity, as our teachers adopted very divergent approaches for how to teach this music to us. And each of those teaching styles spoke to, I think, different priorities in what they hoped to impart. 


In Serbia, the first teacher we worked with - Svetlana Spajić - spent six hours teaching us two songs - with a four hour / two hour split on songs one and two. The first day, we spoke the words, reviewed their meaning, and were asked to “bluetooth” with her silently. We were “too eager to ‘do do do’” and did not spend enough time just listening, trying to sing along with her in our bodies and minds first. We spent an hour mapping out the song with pencil and paper to observe the internal logic of the song’s syllable count and breath rhythm.  





The next teacher we worked with - Sanja Ranković - taught us about ten songs in three hours, belting one after the other in quick succession, asking us to repeat, and, satisfied we got the gist, moving onto the next.





In Bulgaria, our exposure to a diversity of teaching styles broadened. Tzvetanka Varimezova, a longtime teacher of the choir (and almost certainly our biggest cheerleader) seems to possess an encyclopedic knowledge of Bulgarian polyphony, and teaches each song by singing each of three to six-part songs to us, more or less from memory, focusing very practically on the best songs for us given our skillset and size, what performance choices would be most interesting and/or fun, and reviewing any of the trickier pieces (usually ornamentation, harmony, or timing) that may trip us up once we leave her. Tzetze wants our choir to succeed and she wants Bulgarian music to reach as wide an audience, executed with the most joy and at the highest quality possible. And her teaching reflected that, or more accurately her whole being projected that joy and care every second she spent in rehearsal with us. 





In their way, each of these teaching styles were familiar to me. Where Svetlana prioritized intimacy with the music and language over volume, Sanja enthusiastically showered us in repertoire, rooted I think in an excitement and pride in the power, peculiarities, and diversity of music from the broader region formerly known as Yugoslavia.* And while Tzetze similarly loves music from her native country, she equally loves seeing other choirs both attempt and perform that music - she seemed to love the learning process as much as the result, and even when we didn’t fully succeed, she still loved to do it, and loved us, because she could tell we loved it too.


When we arrived in Burgas, we encountered yet another pedagogical method, one that I’ve continued to think about quite a bit since we left. Ana Borisova is a PhD student at Veliko Turnovo University, focused specifically on the transmission of Bulgarian music to non-Bulgarian students. Her pedagogy relies on a technique called “mirroring.” Whereas all our other lessons had been as a choir, Ana taught us in pairs, pairs she selected based on song samples we sent a few months prior to our arrival. I was paired with Ramona, one of the longest-standing members of Dunava besides our founder, and a singer who gives me chills every time she sings. As someone who has been only singing this music for about three years, I was both excited and nervous. 





In some ways, the mirroring rehearsals unfolded much like any other singing lesson: Ana would play and/or sing a line, ask one of us to repeat, and then the next. She made sure we understood the regional background of the songs we learned and the meaning of the lyrics. But two things were unique to me about our lessons with Ana:


  • Our songs were packed with what I will call technically challenging “moves,” for lack of a more musical term. Mordents every other note, mordents plus a trill, slowed and sped-up vibratos, vibratos that had to  match tempo with someone else, "prochukvone" (which involve a kind of vocal break, sometimes with sometimes without a grace note)…You get the idea!

  • Ana discouraged “marking,” when you sing a song at less than full voice or without the full “production value” or commitment as you would in performance. Within 15 minutes of our first lesson, she heard that I was singing kind of in my head voice, and immediately corrected me. I should learn the music as I planned to sing it - approximating as much as I could that full-face, head-buzzing resonance of Bulgarian singers. “It will make it easier to learn the notes,” she promised. 

  • Instead of just trying to imitate our teacher, we also tried to imitate each other. In some ways, it was the closest to the theater work I had done because we had to face each other, look into each other’s eyes, and really try to imitate each other, really listen. 


Now, of course, other teachers we worked with had us pair up and try to blend. But Ana didn’t just want you to blend like a choir, she wanted me to try to do that mordent like Ramona, or have Ramona shape her “o” like me. And I have continually thought about this pedagogical choice further because Ana developed it specifically to help people unfamiliar with Bulgarian music, a musical style with quite a lot of those “moves” that many singers may never have heard let alone attempted before. I would’ve thought in imitating another non-Bulgarian imitating a Bulgarian, one might kick off a tragic game of telephone that could result in some of the wishy-washy pronunciation, de-complexified time signatures, etc., that I’d seen in theater. 


But very clearly that is not what happened. I of course think that obviously has to do with Ana’s close coaching and expertise in this music, but I also think it has to do with what happens when you’re working in pairs, and not a group. Almost every acting program I can think of devotes a large part of their curriculum to scene studies with partners. When it is just you and another person onstage, you and your scene partner are wholly interdependent, and you become very intimate both with your scene material and with each other. And when I am able to focus just on one other person’s voice - their strengths, growth areas, where they really shine - for four hours, I’m able to catch a lot more detail and color from what’s happening in their voice than I would even after the 300 odd hours I’ve spent in a rehearsal room with Dunava. To learn and perform as a duet, Ramona and I needed each other, which took our listening (and singing) I think to a new level. 



I know from reading her pedagogical statement that Ana wants to continue and even grow peoples’ ability to sing Bulgarian music, both in Bulgaria and abroad. But I think something she said in our little internal recital speaks even more to the particular approach to teaching. She said that it saddens her to see that so many Bulgarian children do not know their own musical traditions, and she hopes one day to help re-popularize this music in musical education in Bulgaria. 


Surely, she doesn’t expect every child who might cross her path to become a professional musician, or to even join a choir. But I think it’s also interesting that I believe I did my strongest singing after her workshop precisely because the goal was not to do it perfectly like her - it was for Ramona and myself to carry each other through a challenging learning journey, forcing us to both listen closely to each other and ourselves. 


What mirroring offers as a pedagogical approach is the sense of singing as an intimate, interdependent art, which is so different from how solo voice lessons are taught or even how typical choirs are conducted. It distills the practice down to its most bare, as you and your partner make room in a tradition that is not yours to inhabit and honor the music together. 


*Our choir continues to have lively debates about how this music is attributed, as we’ve discovered different people we’ve worked with attribute these songs differently. The borders between these regions are inflected with very recent memories of genocide, and much longerstanding memories of armed conflict, conquest, but also cohabitation, intermarrying, and shared language. I designate the songs from this area with an imperfect term, while signalling we all as a choir are on a journey to learn how we handle the histories of this music with care, and respect, without reproducing any dynamics of erasure. It’s a WIP - we’d love your thoughts!



Monday, September 15, 2025

Tour retrospective: Pazardzhik

Olivia reporting!

Our first stop in Bulgaria was Pazardzhik, a small city on the Upper Thracian Plain about 45 minutes west of Plovdiv. We were there to work with Tzvetanka Varimezova, the world-class singer, teacher, and conductor who I’m sure needs no introduction for most of our readers, and who was born and raised in Pazardzhik. Tzvetanka had arranged a big concert that weekend with us, the Pazardzhik Ensemble, and Usmifka choir from Denmark. She and her husband Ivan Varimezov, the accomplished gajda player, had papered the town with posters ahead of our arrival.

Tzvetanka poses by her concert poster

Our hotel was in the pedestrian-only center of town, an area with gray stone streets, densely packed with little shops, and shaded by dark green catalpa and horse-chestnut trees. Nearby was the central plaza with big fountains that lit up with neon colors at night, and the quaint-looking Old Post Office clock tower.

City center water fountains light up in different colors at dusk

Dunava singers pose behind the colorful letters that spell the Pazardzhik town name in cyrillic

We had one evening to settle in and chow down at the local pizza place, and then it was time to get down to business.

Dina looks hungrily at a pizza


The next morning, after a trip to the local bakeries and a café (where I learned perhaps my most important Bulgarian phrase, “oshte edno cappuccino, molya!”), we crammed into Dina and Meredith’s hotel room for a pre-rehearsal rehearsal. Since Raia and I hadn’t been with the group in Serbia, this was our first chance to run through everything as a full group before it would be heard by professional Bulgarian singers and another foreign choir. The nerves were palpable all around. Could we pull off Oj Mori Kavale in time? Did we even remember Sednalo E Dzhore Dos? We were down three strong low voices without Jen, Steph, and Chapin—did a few of us need to volunteer to take up smoking for the next few days?

Maybe it was the sight of twenty-some-odd smiling Danish women in beautiful dresses pouring out of our hotel that evening that first started to dissolve the anxiety. As a big, chattery, foreign clump, we moseyed over to the youth center auditorium, where Tzvetanka and the ladies of the Pazardzhik choir received us warmly and gathered with us for our first group rehearsal. We started with warmups and a runthrough of Dragana i Slaveja with all three choirs. Then it was our turn to get up and sing our solo pieces. In this case, I think the pressure to bring our “A game” was good for us: I can’t remember the last time I’ve felt us listening to each other so carefully. We just needed to dial up the volume a bit more: “Hug the audience with your sound!”, Tzvetanka urged us.

Then we had an opportunity to rehydrate and fan ourselves a bit and enjoy the other choirs’ material as they did their runthroughs. Usmifka brought some big, complex arrangements that showcased the range of their singers and the size of their group beautifully. The Pazardzhik choir were powerhouses, as expected. We’ve all spent hours listening to recordings of the great professional folk choirs of Bulgaria, but being in the room with them and having their sound vibrate through your body is an experience on a whole other level.

Dunava singers sit and fan themselves during rehearsal

Usmifka choir practices

The Pazardzhik ensemble rehearses with Ivan and Tzvetanka

Each pair of choirs also had an opportunity or two to sing together in the concert lineup. We got to learn little tweaks to familiar songs as we all adjusted to meet each other halfway on a harmony here or a pause there. It was fun to stand among singers we had never met and feel an instant connection created by the songs we knew in common.

A picture of a handwritten concert setlist on a smartphone

There was a sweet moment at the end of rehearsal where the directors of the choirs all got up and stood together, hand in hand. After hearing all the groups, we felt an even greater appreciation for how these talented leaders have brought us together, kept us disciplined, and helped us do justice to the musical traditions we all value so much.

Directors from Usmifka, Pazardzhik choir, and Dunava with Tzvetanka during rehearsal


The next evening was the concert. One more quick runthrough of the program, some practice clomping up and down the risers, and a change of clothes, and it was time to perform.

Dunava singers sit on stage during rehearsal

Dunava and Pazardzhik singers after the concert


In short, it went great. Some kind audience members shared videos of the big group songs with us later, and we were very happy with how they turned out: 


For me, besides the joy of getting up on stage with old and new friends, and blending my voice with a wall of other women, the highlight was experiencing Tzvetanka as a conductor. She was clear, expressive, often playful, and her energy connected with every singer in the room and locked us in to the sound and emotion that she wanted us to convey to the audience.

Afterwards, we migrated to Roni restaurant for an afterparty. There was much to celebrate: a successful concert, Tzvetanka’s 65th year of life, and the surprise conferment on her of the highest honor of the Bulgarian National Theatre and Culture Association, the Crystal Necklace, at the end of the concert. At long tables crowded with drinks and plates of food, we mingled, traded birthday songs, and danced until closing time.

Dina takes a selfie with Dunava singers at the party

Dina takes a selfie with Usmifka choir singers

Tzvetanka gesticulates to Jenny and Tedy at the dinner table


The pressure and excitement of the concert behind us, we got to breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy two more days of workshops with Tzvetanka, who gave us one great song after another that we can already tell are going to be solid additions to our repertoire. We also managed a side trip to Plovdiv to wander among the ruins and shops and stuff ourselves with palachinki, and a relaxing afternoon at the nearby mineral baths, at the foot of the Rhodope Mountains.
Raia stands under a stone gate

Visiting the Roman ruins of Plovdiv

View of the mountains from the Varvara mineral pools

On Sunday evening, we joined the weekly folk dancing in the town square. Hearing a familiar rhythm, Jenny started a line, and a little local girl ran over with her mother in tow, roaring “DJANGURITSAAAA!!!” and joined in, followed by a string of other local dancers. Looks like there’s international agreement on which dance in 9/8 is the most fun!


Looking back, even after the gorgeous glassy seas of Burgas and the excitement of Koprivshtitsa, Pazardzhik was my favorite place that we visited in Bulgaria. Being able to really sink in to local life for a few days, and having such a warm and close musical community around us, was a truly special experience for me that made the whole trip.







Friday, September 5, 2025

Tour retrospective: Our bus driver!


Hello! We are back from our trip, but we still have some memories to share. This one from Meredith!

When we visited Bulgaria eleven years ago, Dunava spent a lot of time traveling from place to place on our tour bus. This gave us ample time to connect with our driver, Neno. Neno was boisterous and gregarious with an ample supply of Bulgarian dad-jokes. Soon after we met, he told us to call him "Dedo" (grandpa). He was especially taken with our youngest member, my baby E, who was four months old at the time, and whom he would serenade with a song called "Eleonora Moja."

Neno singing to Meredith and Baby E

This year as we planned for our tour, we were informed that Dedo Neno had retired and would not be able to drive us. This was disappointing for those of us who traveled with him in 2014, but understandable, seeing as a decade had gone by. We looked forward to meeting a new driver, knowing that no one could replace Neno.


The Bulgarian portion of our tour began in Pazardzhik. We had a very early start the day we were to travel to our next location. Dunava and entourage, with much eye rubbing and yawning, were waiting when our bus pulled up. The door opened and a spry, suntanned gentleman stepped out singing, "Eleonora moja..."



I was surprised by how emotional I became as we were reunited with Neno. Was it the ungodly hour of the morning? Perhaps. But meeting Neno again reminded me of our last trip, and of the challenges and joys of traveling with my infant daughter, who is rapidly growing into a young woman. I joyfully shared photos of E, and Neno pulled out our CD and a postcard we gifted him on our last tour. It was a wonderful way to connect on a personal level.

The postcard and CD we gifted Neno back in 2014.

Neno drove us from Pazardzhik to Burgas, and from there to Strelcha (where we'd stay while visiting the folk festival in Koprivshtitsa). To say good-bye, he brought his wife and granddaughter to our hotel for breakfast on our last morning in Strelcha. (I guess they wanted to know what the fuss was all about with these American women!)

Neno, his wife and granddaughter visiting Dunava at our hotel pool






Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Dina reporting. 

Whew! Well, that's Belgrade almost done. After three action-packed days, we're off to our next destination tomorrow: Pazardzhik, Bulgaria!

What did we learn in Serbia? We had intense workshops with two master singers of Serbian folklore, Svetlana Spajic (who rearranged our molecules and took us deep through pronunciation, tone production, expression, coordination between lead and accompanying voices, the works) and Sanja Rankevic (who provided a broad spectrum of repertoire, including a deliciously crunchy Ganga, and all of it enhanced by some demonstrations with her university students). 

In short: This isn't like Bulgarian singing at all. ;-) 

Personally for me, it's a little intimidating feeling like a rank beginner again. But at the same time it's exciting to get such a treasure trove of material to discover and work on, and I can't wait to really internalize it and work on it and make it Dunava repertoire.

But right now, it just feels like my brain is full (and I think it's the same for all of us). We've got a nice collection of recordings and videos to review, and at least tomorrow is "just" a travel day, so we have a little time to process. 

I think there were other non-workshop adventures had by others -- such as Fiore searching high and low for trubachi (Serbian brass band), only to stumble on some at a wedding a block from our hotel. Jenny, Merdith, Ramona, Tedy and I went exploring and came upon a street where every restaurant featured a live band serenading guests (it reminded me a bit of Beale Street in Memphis, but -- Serbian!). We ate ceasar salad covered with bacon, "aromatic potatoes" that turned out to be french fries, and discovered the butter-cream hybrid kaymak. (Which needs to stay faaaaar away from me, omg it's the most delicious stuff ever.) And yes, of course: meat. Svetlana fed us an abundant lunch on our last day with her, including a big plate of sausages and ham and meatballs, and lepinja bread. Oof. 

Our teachers and everyone we met was so kind and generous and encouraging. We'll definitely be looking for opportunities to connect with Svetlana and Sanja again. 



Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Belgrade, Workshop 1

 Hello, this is Jenny. So far, it’s not too hot here — thanks to whatever science happened to make it so!



Tuesday, July 1, 2025

We're doing it again!

Hello, world! It's Dunava!

We are not regular bloggers, and does anyone even still read blogs these days...?

But we are about to head back to the Balkans, and so we'll revive this online journal to keep our friends at home appraised of our adventures. 

Our trip is from July 28 - August 11, and during that time: 

  • We'll spend 3 days in Belgrade, studying with two master singers and educators: Sanja Ranković and Svetlana Spajić
  • We'll then head to Bulgaria to study with Tzvetanka Varimezova, who is also organizing a concert with us, the Danish choir Usmifka, and the choir of the Pazardzhik ensemble
  • We'll travel to Burgas to meet for personalized lessons with Ana Borisova
  • We'll visit the festival at Koprivshtitsa and will perform on the stage in the center of town!
That's what we have planned so far, but more is in the works. We're so excited!

Here's a photo of Tzvetanka during a visit to Seattle last year:




A zillion thanks to our very generous community, who is making this trip possible with some significant financial support. We are so lucky to have such dedicated fans and friends! 



Monday, October 6, 2014

A Musical Journey

Ramona writing.

Now that everyone has returned and is settling into their normal rhythm here in the Northwest, it is time to process the massive and somewhat overwhelming amount of music we were able to record along our journey. I would like to take the time to describe some of this for our audience as not everyone will be able to hear our new pieces in the November Town Hall concert and we will be able to present only a fraction of what we learned.

Many of you know that through my family, I have been listening to Bulgarian folk music since I was born and have been several times to the country. I wasn't introduced to the arranged choral music made so famous throughout the world by Philip Koutev until after college.  Much of what I heard growing up came from old records of the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 80s; Balkanton, Jugoton, Radio Televisia (add location here), etc. Other music was from field recordings made or collected by various American folk dance teachers. Anyone who has listened to folk dance music of these eras can hear the difference between it and the arranged multi-voice pieces which grew in popularity at the same time.Village singers traditionally learned from other family members or others in their same village. Professionally trained singers study in music schools and learn to sing the styling from all regions of Bulgaria. When learning with one master teacher, we were told that professional singers needed to change their vocal quality in order to sing in extremely high and low ranges as well as to maintain their singing voices for hours at a time. Traditional singers might sing for gatherings, holidays and festivals, even hours at a time, but not daily and certainly not in extreme ranges for their "chest voice".

All this is to set the background for the astounding amount of variability in vocal music that comes out of one small country, both in terms of vocal production and in terms of regional style.  This variability, even the small fraction of which Dunava attempts to faithfully represent, is no small feat to produce. My goal for Dunava on this trip was to hear as much distinct music from the "source" as possible in order that we can have the same understanding of what music we are trying to present. In this, we were largely successful. In musical selection and vocal presentation we strive to be as accurate as possible. Collectively experiencing on this trip that we attempt to emulate two sources in Bulgarian vocal music, village and professional ensemble, not just one, was vital for our choir. Through the connections of our guides, our friends, and our own, we were immersed in a range of singing professionalism; from individuals singing only their specific villages's songs to small town ensemble members presenting regional medleys, to other small town choirs singing pan-Bulgarian favorites (as opposed to village specific songs), to members of the great and internationally acclaimed vocal ensembles. This is by no means meant to rank anyone's ability, but rather to highlight the difference in what people sang for us and taught us.

The first music we heard was in Sofia, capital of the country and center of the Shope region.  Two amazing components, the Mitevi brothers and 3 musicians (kaval/end blown flute, gudulka/bowed lira, and tambura/long necked mandolin) who play in the national orchestras, graced our evening. Everyone was fabulous. (Note: I shan't list all names in this post as they should all be noted in previous posts about these events. If anyone wants more detail, please contact us). The professional musicians were trained so well that they provided backup music for the two Shope singers on 1 or 2 songs, backup for Tsvetanka's Thracian songs, and then favorite instrumental pieces from all over Bulgaria.  The two singers (Shope singing is mostly done with a melody line and a drone), presented a selection of unarranged songs with close second intervals and a distinct kind of vibrato that is only sung in the Shope area. Listen to the clips so you can hear the types of music shared with us that night.

Audio Sample: Mitevi Brothers

In Varna, a city five hours drive east to the opposite side of the country on the Black Sea, our evening music was played by the talented group "Pendari",  headed, I believe, by Nikolai Doctorov. This group of musicians were also members of  Ensemble Varna (the city's professional music, vocal and dance troupe equivalent to Sofia's Koutev Ensemble).  Interestingly enough, until the musicians played tunes local to the Dobrudzha region, the music was remarkably similar to what we heard from the musicians in Sofia. Once we began to hear melodies like Zborenka, Varnenski Kjuchek, Danets, and Ruka, then the music and musicianship took on a very different flavor despite the use of the same instrumentation.

Audio Sample: Varnenski Kjuchek

In Sredets, a town in the Strandzha region of southeast Bulgaria, our music was noticeably different from the beginning. We spent the evening with part of the group "Bozhura", a men's choir with musicians. Their songs (as all songs in the east part of Bulgaria), are sung in unison. Here they were accompanied by only bagpipe and drum (gaida and tupan). Percentage-wise there are far fewer men's vocal groups in Bulgaria. Group singing is often presented by women even though many men sing as soloists. The only other men's group we heard, "Banski Starcheta", was in Bansko, a town in the far southwest of Bulgaria, and the two choirs couldn't be more different. Though they both presented songs traditional to their regions,  the vocal production, ornamentation, and all the little components that make up a each groups style have little in common with each other.

Audio Sample: Bozhura

Audio Sample: Bansko

The last musical group I want to share is the "Boyana Ensemble" from the town of Kostandovo in the northwest foothills of the the Rhodope mountains. The Rhodopes are in the south of Bulgaria but the range is large enough that music from Kostandovo has little in common with typical Rhodope music even though it is geographically in the same region. (Being on the northwestern edge, it it is also geographically close to the Pirin mountains (read Pirin music style) and the end of the Thracian plains (read Thracian music style). Rhodope vocal music is almost always sung by a single singer accompanied by a gaida. A few girls learned some Rhodope songs during our lessons in Kotel. The music we heard in Kostandovo had dumbek (small hand drum), accordion, and tambura. Always in two-voices, melody and drone, variations of both men's and women's groups presented Pomashko and Kostandovo village songs. To my less experienced ear, the music sounded Pirin or Macedonian, but there is a subtle difference that I am not yet clear on as to what makes the music Pomashko. Tsvetanka tried to explain something about chords and rhythms but it the rush of the moment it somehow still didn't click for me. Regardless of my ignorance, note the large distinction between this music and the rest you have hard so far.

Audio Sample: Ensemble Boyana

Now, let's move onto the choir music which we learned from professional singers in Varna, Kotel, Pazardzhik, and Sofia. Here, location matters less, as these women sing arrangements from all over Bulgaria. Each specializes in her own home region and may more often solo with pieces from their home region, but they are masters of all. We studied two medleys from the Shope and Dobrudzhan regions, and then many single region pieces from Shope, Thrace, and unknown or pan-Bulgarian arrangements. Here are two samples of us learning arranged pieces (which we are not currently going to perform).

Audio Sample: Ogrejala (with Tzvetanka Varimezova and Pazardzhik Ensemble)

Audio Sample: Mori Djulber Sevdo (with Sashka Chenkova and Abagar Quartet)

The original state music ensembles of the 1950s were modeled directly after Soviet choirs (e.g. the Soviet Pyatnitzy Choir) but have ever after taken on a life of their own with a beautiful range and depth of music that far surpasses their original inspiration. Nowadays, many youth study "national" music in both folk music schools such as the one we stayed at in Kotel and in larger universities throughout the country. As a result, their is a natural standardization that has happened even within regional styles, but at the same time, a far greater number of people with unbelievable musical talent. More about this can be read elsewhere but for Dunava's part, we were able to experience this passing on of folk music by studying with singers of several generations; long time director of the Varna choir, Yordanka Nadyelcha, the 20s-30s professional singers brought in to the Kotel school from the Abagar quartet, and then some middle schooler/early teens who helped teach us in Bansko).

And with the above final sound clip, I will bid our readers adieu and keep this post to a readable length. I hope you have enjoyed hearing some of the amazing variety of music which Dunava was able to experience in Bulgaria this summer. We hope to share as much as we can with you throughout this next year. If you are near Seattle, don't forget to come to our Town Hall performance on November 8th. We'll be presenting much new music there and you're sure to enjoy the wonderful venue.

Enjoy, and Happy Music Making!

Ramona and Dunava